By Richard Thompson

Moving 4,377 miles from Nashville to Tangier, Morocco, started as a playful joke between newlyweds Ricoyo and Arleevia Lyles, but it became their reality about two months ago.

The couple first visited the North African country's coastal town for their honeymoon in Sept. 2023. Quickly falling in love with the food, architecture and warm culture, Ricoyo brought up the idea of living there. "I wasn’t expecting her to even give me any type of response or inkling that she would want to do the same thing as well, but she was like, 'That would be pretty cool,' " he said. With Ricoyo's job in finance and Arleevia's in public relations, the couple was already working remotely. They had no children, so moving would be a lighter load.

Living outside of the U.S. has always been a pipedream for Ricoyo, 40, who was born in the Bahamas but spent nearly all of his life in Nashville. "Growing up, I used to romanticize what it would be like to grow up in the Bahamas or experience another culture," he said. "From a young age, it's always been a dream for me to do that."

The low cost of living in Morocco and close proximity to Europe and the rest of Africa were appealing, but more importantly, the couple was also looking for where they could start a family. Safety has been top of mind for Arleevia, 26, who is now pregnant with their first child. "Thinking about these things as we're preparing to have our first child has been in the back of our minds, especially as Black Americans where there's racial tension in the U.S.," she said. "Thinking about that for our child and him (Ricoyo) as a Black man."

Like the Lyles, a growing number of Americans are enticed by the idea of moving abroad. Between 2011 and 2024, 21% of Americans said they wanted to leave the U.S., compared to 10% in 2011, according to migration data by Gallup. While a big motivator is the uncertain political climate – including the most recent presidential election, which was one of the biggest sources of stress for Americans – aspiring expats are also seeking out a better cost of living, safety, health care and culture that aligns more with their values.

That sentiment echoed with Ricoyo before he took the leap. "My biggest thing is I overthought it," he said. "It seemed like such a big feat. How would that even be? What would my life look like?"

Here's what it's like to move abroad, with tips from first-time expats.

Do a trial run

You should obviously visit the place that piques your interest before you relocate your life, but the Lyles recommend people stay there for a while to get a real taste of what life could be like. "Go out there for an extended month to test it out," Ricoyo said. "See how you like it and adjust to the climate there."

The fact that they could always return home if they didn't like it there also gave the Lyles solace. "Remember that nothing is permanent; you can always go to a different country or go back home," Arleevia said. "Hey, if we don't love it, we always have a homebase."

Until they get dual citizenship after five years of residency, as Americans, the couple is in Morocco visa-exempt, meaning they can stay for up to 90 days, then enter another country, like Spain – which is less than an hour away by ferry over the Strait of Gibraltar – and then cross back into the country.

Many countries, including the European Union, Indonesia and Japan, allow travelers to visit for up to 90 days without a visa. If your profession allows for it, getting a digital nomad visa lets you stay and legally work longer – like one year in Spain and two in Portugal – and can take just a few weeks to be approved.

You can also take multiple visits to explore the country. When Dennis Bailey first visited Porto, Portugal, for a week in 2019, he fell in step with the easygoing, hospitable culture. "I’m a laid-back kind of person. This was a laid-back lifestyle; it was very relaxed and slow and different than what Washington, D.C., was like," said Bailey, who recently published the book "Ola? Portugal: Why I Moved to the Land of Sun and Sardines (and how you can too)."

"Man, you can get off the hamster wheel," he thought to himself.

At the time, he was pondering his upcoming retirement. "I'm not wealthy. I don't have a lot of savings and a small pension," he said about the cost of living in the U.S. "My apartment in Washington was $3,000 a month, just for that month." His current apartment in the beach town of Carcavelos is about half that. Bailey was also turned off by the political landscape in the U.S. "All those things added up," Bailey, 71, said.

After his initial trip, he returned to Lisbon for "another reconnaissance" and suggested people do at least two trips.

"Do it in different times of the year and do it in different places," he said. "Go out in the middle of the country and see some of the smaller towns." While he enjoys the slow pace of Portugal, others who romanticize this type of lifestyle may realize they don't actually like it on a daily basis.

What are the logistics of moving abroad?

Not everyone has the luxury of picking up their life and relocating abroad, whether due to having to take care of a family member or work in an office. When he moved, Bailey was single and his adult daughter was living on the West Coast, so nothing was tying him down to the U.S. He could also work from anywhere as a freelance journalist and didn't have to find a job in Portugal to sponsor his visa. In general, moving can be a nightmare, and internationally, it needs more legwork and, arguably, courage. The Lyles made a pros and cons list to see if moving away from their family would be worth it, and the entire process took them about a year.

Bailey has been living on Portugal's digital nomad visa since 2021, which permits him residency for two years with the option to renew. He did the visa paperwork himself and said it was relatively easy as long as you're organized. He also had a Portugal-based woman, who he met on one of his trips and is now his wife, scout out apartments for him so he wouldn't be paying rent in two places. After five years in the country, he becomes eligible for citizenship.

What he did find challenging was navigating the tax laws as an expat, so people may want to outsource assistance when it comes to the sometimes complicated legal obligations of living abroad. "Be careful about what you see online," he said. "I would get an accountant that understands expat taxes, and I would get a realtor." He also hired someone to help him get the Portuguese equivalent of a Social Security number.

With domestic moves, people tend to keep most of their belongings, but an international move calls for harder decision-making and light traveling. "It's hard to give up a lot of your stuff," Bailey said. The alternative is to ship your belongings internationally, which will probably cost thousands.

The Lyles felt similarly. Getting approval from their places of employment and figuring out what to bring with them were the most difficult logistics, they said. The two decided to temporarily live with Arleevia's family in Las Vegas before their international flight, leaving their valuables there. In Morocco, they're looking for a fully furnished apartment.

What is it like to acclimate to a new culture?

The expat life seems to be going smoothly for the Lyles and Bailey so far. In the three years since being in Portugal, Bailey said he sees his daughter more than when he was in the U.S., and her visits are longer, too. He enjoys the Portuguese culture of long dinners and the norm of "desfrutar," or enjoying the moment.

"Since then I learned a lot about Portuguese culture, they got this work-life balance figured out," he said. "They put an emphasis on leisure time and family time that’s really important to me."

For both sets of expats, one of the hardest parts of living in another country has been the language barrier. Depending on where you are in Morocco, Arabic, French, Berber and Spanish are the most widely spoken languages, although English is common. To get citizenship, you need to be knowledgeable in Arabic or Amazigh.

Cultural differences also play a role, such as Morocco's preference for cash, unlike in the U.S., where credit cards dominate. People should be aware of the local laws and customs before they move so they can behave respectfully. "Do your research. Lots of different countries have lots of laws with the way they operate," Alveeria said. "Just being culturally aware and emphatic and not bringing your American mindset and standards with you because that’s not how everything works.”

With a due date in April, the couple plans to have the baby in the U.S. and return to Morocco in the summer to raise their new family for at least a few years.

"Sometimes it is nice to take a step back and a break from the 'drama,' " Ricoyo said. "I encourage people to step out of their comfort zone."

Tags:

• moving-abroad, Americans

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